Install your system – three installations, step by step, for a private individual

1Mounting the panels

Mounting depends first on what you are mounting onto. Select your surface.

SectionFront view

  • 1The rafter. Everything rests on it. Locate it from inside the loft, or by probing with a needle before lifting the tile. A screw driven into thin air, or into the sarking boards alone, will not survive the first gust of wind.
  • 2Two coach screws per roof hook, never just one. Embedment depth at least four times the shank diameter — 32 mm for Ø 8. A pilot hole is mandatory so the timber does not split.
  • 3The batten carries the tiles, not the panels. Some clamp-type hooks grip onto it when the roof structure cannot be reached: that is a fallback, not a default choice.
  • 4The tile in the hook's course is cut back with an angle grinder so the hook passes through without touching it. A tile bearing on the hook cracks at the first thermal movement.
  • 5The roof hook must be chosen to suit your roof covering: an adjustable rafter hook for interlocking tiles, a “monk-and-nun” hook seated on the crown of the wave for barrel tiles, a two-screw hook for slate. On trapezoidal steel sheet there is no hook at all: mini-rails screwed into the rib.
  • 6The rail takes up any unevenness and spreads the load. Never place a module clamp across a splice, and leave at least 60 mm between the edge of a module and the end of the rail.
  • 7The modules take two people: 21 to 24 kg over two square metres that catch the wind like a sail. Work from the bottom row upwards, tightening as you go.
  • 8The mid clamp holds two modules at once. It must overlap the frame by 7 to 10 mm and be tightened to the specified torque: too little and the module slips, too much and the frame deforms and the glass micro-cracks.
  • 9The positive and negative cables run side by side, held up against the underside of the modules. A large loop between the two picks up lightning like an aerial. No cable may rest on a tile or hang free.
Cross-section of an on-roof mounting on tiles. This is the point where weathertightness and wind resistance are decided.

2Wiring the panels

3Wiring the DC box and the inverter

Schematic diagram for a private home: the colours follow the usual convention — red for +, black for −, green-and-yellow for earth, and on the AC side brown for the live conductor, blue for the neutral. The exact ratings depend on your installation and on the inverter's manual.

4Wiring the inverter to the consumer unit

Schematic diagram for a private home: the colours follow the usual convention — red for +, black for −, green-and-yellow for earth, and on the AC side brown for the live conductor, blue for the neutral. The exact ratings depend on your installation and on the inverter's manual.

5Powering the house without the grid

The stand-alone switchboard

Without the grid, the inverter-charger supplies its own switchboard, with its circuit breakers per circuit and its residual-current device. There is no meter and no main service breaker: you are the supplier. Three points are non-negotiable:

  • The earth electrode and the earthing system: the inverter must be configured to create the neutral, otherwise the residual-current devices will not trip. The manual describes it; an electrician checks it in an hour.
  • Peak power: the inverter must be able to start the biggest appliance in the house — the well pump, the oven — and not merely cover the average. Allow two to three times the rated power for motor start-up.
  • The backup generator, connected to the charger input, with a changeover switch that prevents any direct coupling.

An off-grid site can be installed without a licensed firm almost everywhere in Europe, including Italy and Spain. But it is the most demanding installation of the three, and the one where a mistake costs weeks without electricity.

6The measurements before commissioning

Four checks, in this order, before connecting the inverter.

  1. The polarity of each string, with a multimeter. This is the check that saves you from destroying a brand-new inverter.
  2. The open-circuit voltage of each string, compared with the module voltage multiplied by the number of modules, corrected for temperature. A clear deviation points to a faulty module or connector.
  3. The short-circuit current, referred back to standard conditions using the measured irradiance and temperature.
  4. The insulation resistance, in dry weather, between each polarity and earth.
Open-circuit voltage of the systemTest voltageMinimum insulation
below 120 V250 V DC0.5 MΩ
120 to 500 V500 V DC1 MΩ
above 500 V1000 V DC1 MΩ

A 6 kWp system in a single string exceeds 500 V: test at 1000 V, one megohm minimum. Finally, check the continuity of the earthing, from the frames through to the earth bar in the consumer unit.

The calculator's quote gives you the power, the number of modules and the battery suited to your home — and prepares the declaration dossier.

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